Walk the medina of Fès el-Bali
Enter through Bab Bou Jeloud, the tiled Blue Gate, and follow the two main streets, Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira, downhill towards the Quaraouiyine. Founded in 859, it is often described as the oldest continuously operating university in the world (non-Muslims can look in from the doorways).
For the first half-day, a licensed guide saves a lot of time. After that, getting a little lost is part of the fun: going uphill always leads you back to a main gate.
See the Chouara tannery
The leather tanneries, with their stone vats of dye, are the image of Fez. The best views are from the terraces of the leather shops around them. Go in the morning, when the work is most active.
Visit the madrasas
The Bou Inania and Al-Attarine madrasas are 14th-century Marinid masterpieces of carved cedar, stucco and zellige tilework, and both are open to visitors.
Find calm in Jnan Sbil and the Batha museum
Between the old and new medinas, the Jnan Sbil gardens are a green break. Nearby, Dar Batha, a former palace, hosts a museum of Moroccan arts and a lovely Andalusian garden.
Watch sunset from the Marinid tombs
The ruins of the Marinid tombs and the Borj Nord fortress on the hill north of the medina give the best panorama over Fez, especially at sunset when the calls to prayer echo across the valley.
Explore Fès el-Jdid and the Mellah
The “new” Fez of the 13th century holds the golden doors of the Royal Palace (Dar el-Makhzen) and the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, with its distinctive balconies, synagogue and cemetery.
Day trips from Fez
Volubilis, Moulay Idriss and Meknes make an easy full day. Chefchaouen is a long but popular day out. Ifrane and the Azrou cedar forest offer mountain air. And Fez is the classic starting point for a Sahara tour to Merzouga.
Practical tips
Best seasons are spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November); summers are hot. Wear comfortable shoes for the steep alleys, carry some cash in dirhams, and politely decline unofficial “guides” who offer to show you the way. Petit taxis (red in Fez) are cheap for rides around the city — ask for the meter.