Finding Chouara
The tannery lies near the Saffarine square (the coppersmiths’ quarter) and the Quaraouiyine, deep in the medina. Signs are few and self-appointed guides are many: going with a licensed guide, or following a map carefully, saves time.
The best time to go
Morning is best: the tanners are at work, the pits are full of colour and the sun lights the vats. By late afternoon activity slows down.
The terraces and the smell
You watch from the upper floors of the leather shops. The smell of the tanning process is strong; shops often hand out a sprig of mint to hold under your nose.
Shopping etiquette
There is no obligation to buy. If you do, take your time, compare quality and prices, and negotiate politely. If you do not, a small tip to the shop that let you onto its terrace is appreciated.
Questions
Can I take photos?
Yes, from the terraces. Ask before photographing people up close.